Endurance...Maybe Not a Good Tired

     Today I'm dragging...hashed, trashed, and thrashed. Even though feet are doing better...I sure felt the walk today. Five more walking days...so I have to buck up. 

     But lucky, lucky Laraine gets to share a bed tonight...she'll love it I predict. 

      I've thought a lot about my man, Kimbo slice today...I'm lonely for him. I'm missing a lot of things...m & m popcorn for one. He's had a rough go since I've been gone, losing his mom. He's a good person and I quite like him. 

     I've actually had mucho (impressed?) time to think and ponder on my life and my blessings. I have been blessed with great things...my family being first and foremost. 

      We have had dinner with two nice women the past two nights. When I told them that I married at 17 and was 5 months pregnant when I turned 18...they almost swallowed their gum. But I thought about my sweet first born James and how easy he was...how he slept all night from 2 weeks...and how even as a little toddler he walked around humming...and remains so constantly cheerful...well it's all good. 

     Then Maegan, Hunter, Jackie, and Luke joined the gang and I can only be grateful. 

     Life is really hard, harder than I dreamed it would be. And somehow simultaneously life is really good, way better than I dreamed it would be. 

     My darling daughters

     My son Luke who is in Peru. 

     All of us at Luke's graduation. 

     I didn't have to come to Spain to know life is good...

From Warrior to Wimp

There is a hierarchy of admiration on the Camino. 

Most admired are those who start in France and do the whole enchilada. That is nearly 500 miles. Those who walk it in its entirety, carrying their own packs, without skipping sections - just gutting it out to Santiago are the kings of the road

Then there are those who do a section, also carrying their packs. 

Then there are those who walk with a light pack, sending luggage ahead by a transport van company. 

In the last two days there are lots of walkers without packs

I feel a little jealous. 

When I put my pack on each morning it feels like an old friend, perfectly fitted to my back, warm and secure. 

After a few hours it feels like a gargoyle with a lead bottom, dragging from my neck muscles, heavy and burdensome. I am always glad to take it off. 

Good thing Spain is so beautiful

I don't know what these are but they look like the pussy willows my dad always brought my Mom in the spring. My parents were romantics. 

Today I'm grateful for cola cao, which, when mixed into steamed milk can cure anything, even backpack loathing. 

It's a Good Tired

    Eight miles today...eight yesterday...I get so I can't remember even where we stayed two nights ago or what day of the week it is. You may not believe this but to just walk, eat, wash clothes, sleep...repeat...repeat...takes you places emotionally and physically you haven't been before. 

     I don't know if it's the bonk on the head or the physical labor, but every afternoon when we arrive at our destination for the day, my eyes suddenly feel so heavy I can hardly keep them open. But it's a good tired. 

     My face is healing nicely and my new grandma thuh thuh thuh sandals are allowing my mincemeat little toes to finally heal. Life is good. 

     I'm sure missing all my peeps at home. 

This is What it Smells Like

For the last several days we have been in very rural areas. Every little town has more cows than people. The smell of manure is sharp and present. Silage scent wafts by on the breeze. These smells are not unpleasant to me. They are the smells I grew up with. A barn out back was part of my childhood. 

In the countryside there is the smell of cut grass where they scythe along the pilgrim path. It smells green with every step. The flowers that are so abundant smell good too, some growing on tall stalks. I've never seen calla lilies at the side of the road before

In the early hours of hiking the fog smells clean and wet and I fill my lungs. 

Today we crossed a great river at the town of Portomartin. 

The Main Street is covered with vendors

You can buy a wheel of cheese or pig feet tied in pairs. 

I ate pizza and it smelled good. 

Day of Miracles on the Camino

Sarria is a beautiful little city, the last place a peregrino can begin the Camino and still obtain a credencial. We stayed in an old albergue on an old street in the old part of town. Did I mention it was old?

We were lucky to be in town for the culmination of a three day celebration of "Corpus Christi". The middle of the street was decorated for blocks with greenery, flowers and petals. 

After Mass, people walked up and down the steep street, saying hello and visiting. It was a beautiful, friendly scene. 

Our albergue had a little patio out back with a nice city view and clothesline. Every day after walking we wash our clothes by hand or pay a few euros for a washer and then hang them to dry. 

The miracle today was that Jill found sandals that don't hurt her feet. We are very hopeful they will work. 

Today we had nice visits with Deb  and Julio, from the USA and  Guatemala, respectively. Julio's story of civil war, murder of his family and his own survival, writing a book and coming to terms with a hate filled heart that eventually was healed was very touching to me. We

Met him days ago in Astorga and we were glad to meet him again and know him better. There are such good people in the world...

Including Jill, who is an excellent companion who I like more every day, especially now that she wears socks and sandals. She is quite famous on the Camino for her face plant. Yesterday a

Couple from Ireland inquired about her health having heard about her, and today someone else did too. 

Today's highlight was hearing "Amazing Grace" played on a bagpipe eerily floating through the trees. Then around the bend was a real life bagpiper. Only on the Camino. 

Mama Get Your Sandals On!

     This was my best hiking day yet!!! Reason why?? I ditched the boots and bought some big, ugly, granny orthotics hiking sandals. 

     Yesterday in Sarria I tried on several pairs of shoes but they all felt like same song second verse. But when I tried on these puppies...it was like the organ playing Bach in Leon Cathedral accompanied by the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. 

     They are beautiful to me. And Laraine says: "Mama get your socks and sandals on, we're going to town to get a mug."

     Everyday I think the scenery can't out do itself...but it does, over and over. 

     My heart is with Kim today speaking at his Mom's funeral. Everyone is there except Luke and I. I'm sure it will be a great day for a great lady. 

     Yesterday was sweet Abe's 3rd birthday. My thoughts have with Jackie and Jon. Why they were called to pass through this I don't know...but I do know everything happens for a reason. 

     And can I just say Laraine is the best company ever. We can shed a few tears, laugh hard at something, or walk a mile without talking, all within the course of an hour. I love her!

     

Eureka!

We just discovered the secret to never having to deal with a top bunkmate in the alburgue

The fart machine app on my phone.